Until a year ago, Plaza de la Magdalena was criss-crossed with cars and buses, since that’s where people boarded public transport for the four corners of Seville. It is now a pretty pedestrian square, planted with orange trees and magnolias. And in the middle flows a fountain. Tourists and Sevillians sit casually on one of the hotel’s two terraces, facing south. It looks like an artist’s view of a property developer, everything is new and harmonious. The hotel’s clean, white façade, which actually has two buildings, one of which has a rooftop bar and swimming pool, blends skillfully into the old urban fabric.
Inside, people from the neighborhood have become accustomed to coming for a coffee, to work or to have an aperitif. The restaurant menu is signed by starred chef Eneko Atxa, a successful Basque who multiplies franchises. The 89 rooms and suites of the Magdalena Plaza distill this contemporary luxury, neither flashy nor overwhelming, urban and stylish. They play on shades of beige, blue and soothing grey. The parquet is solid wood. In a large full-length mirror, you check your clothes before going out to enjoy tapas. If you come home worn-out, the thick-glazed windows will insulate you from the noise of the revelers.
Finally, the key asset of the 405 is its private terrace, where you can laze around in armchairs or immerse yourself in a Jacuzzi – with a view of the potted orange tree. From March, orange blossom begins to embalm Seville. Soon, the temperatures will rise on the occasion of Holy Week (in April), then the feria, two weeks later.
Magdalena Plaza Sevilleplaza de la Magdalena, 1. Rooms from 220 euros.
170 meters away: light a candle at La Magdalena
The gilded altarpiece of the neighborhood church is the largest in Seville, after that of the cathedral. In this ancient Dominican temple, the Inquisition made its debut. Bartolomé de Las Casas was consecrated bishop of Chiapas there. Later, the painter of the XVIIand century Murillo was baptized and married there. The parish is very active, with masses celebrated several times a day. During Holy Week, the statue of the Virgin of La Magdalena goes out in procession, like those of the sixty other brotherhoods of the city.
La Magdalena Church, calle San Pablo, 12. Free entry. Open until 11 a.m. (Sunday until 1 p.m.) then from 6 p.m. to 9 p.m..
At 280 meters: succumb to sweet delights
The confiteria La Campana is an institution. Since 1889, people have been enjoying babas, eclairs, millefeuilles, cream puffs, chocolate truffles and Spanish cakes such as yemas (sugar and egg yolk) or polvorones, which are crumble as soon as they are chewed. The house also shapes chocolates and candied fruit… but no churros (to be found elsewhere in town).
Confiteria La Campana, calle Sierpes, 1/3. Pastries from 2.60 euros. Open daily from 8 a.m. to 10 p.m.
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