Exfoliating your skin is no longer just a grain exfoliation. Acids can do the job just as much … or even better! Zoom on AHA, BHA and PHA, these exfoliating acids that have integrated our beauty routines.
If you want beautiful skin, there are several steps that should not be overlooked. Cleaning, hydration … but also exfoliation! For Paula Begoun, founder of the Paula’s Choice brand, this is a essential gesture to perform on a daily basis. But beware ! There is no question of using a grain scrub every night. Paula Begoun recommends a daily exfoliation with acids that we find under the name AHA, BHA or PHA. This makes it possible to get rid of dead cells, to unify the skin texture, but also to soften the skin, smooth it. The complexion is more radiant every day. Finally, last point (not insignificant!), Exfoliating acids promise to reduce pimples, blackheads, as well as reduce enlarged pores. Contrary to what we might think, they are not prohibited or even not recommended for sensitive, fragile, dry or atopic skin. Each skin has its exfoliating acid!
AHAs
AHAs (Alpha Hydroxy Acid) correspond in particular to glycolic, lactic, tartaric, malic and mandelic acids. They are soluble in water and have an action on the surface of the skin. AHAs primarily target the signs of aging and the damage caused by the Sun. “It is especially recommended for dry skin, and to be avoided for sensitive skin” explains Sophie Strobel, Skincare Education Manager at Paula’s Choice. “I even want to say that from 5% concentration, it is preferable to gradually integrate it into your skincare routine as a precautionary principle; either every 2/3 days, then increase the frequency if everything is fine “ she recommends.
The BHA
BHA (Acid Beta Hydroxy) corresponds to salicylic acid. Unlike AHAs, BHA is oil soluble. It acts on the surface of the skin, but also on inside the pores. Simply put, it’s perfect for targeting clogged and enlarged pores. In general, we recommend BHA for combination and oily skin with a tendency to imperfections. Moreover, we often find BHA in ranges for “young skin” and in France often under its name “salicylic acid”. It is also recommended for sensitive skins since it also has an anti-inflammatory action. “BHA is authorized in the European Union with a maximum concentration of 2%” recalls Sophie Strobel.
PHA
PHAs (Poly Hydroxy Acids) correspond in particular to lactobionic acid, galactose or gluconic acid. These penetrate less deeply into the epidermis and are softer than AHA and BHA. Therefore, they are recommended for skin affected by skin diseases such as eczema, rosacea or even droughts. They may also be suitable for sensitive skin that does not support AHA and BHA.
You now know which acid to turn to depending on your skin type or your problem. All you have to do is find the treatment that will fit perfectly into your beauty routine (lotion, serum, mask, etc.). Last recommendation: imperatively consider using a cream incorporating an SPF daily, summer and winter. Exfoliating acids sensitize the skin to the sun. It is therefore essential to avoid aging of the skin or even pigment spots.