The spring-summer 2024 collections kicked off in New York, where designers presented their vision of women for next summer. Newcomers, desirable changing rooms, celebrity jostling… A quick overview of what you shouldn’t miss.
The return of Ralph Lauren
After four years of absence from the official fashion week calendar, Ralph Lauren has returned to the New York catwalks. However, he had not completely disappeared: in March 2022, he invited himself out of schedule for a fashion show at Moma, the Museum of Modern Art in New York, and did it again in Los Angeles in October 2022. Born in Bronx in 1939, Lauren remains a leading figure on the American fashion scene. His collection presented in the Brooklyn district reflects this: denim is obviously present, worked in an openwork way or stitched with tulle on suits, pants or small jackets. We find the elements of the working girl on loose suits and pleated pants, but also references to the Wild West, cowgirl hat and twirling fringes included. Finally, the collection makes strong nods to Old Hollywood, which are reflected in grandiloquent and lamé evening dresses, including the spectacular model worn by American model Christy Turlington to close this show celebrating theAmerican way of life.
Peter Do’s debut with Helmut Lang
The debut of Peter Do, a 33-year-old Vietnamese-American designer, appointed in May as head of style at Helmut Lang, a cult label from the 1990s, was eagerly awaited. The brand with a troubled history – sold by its founder to the Prada group, partly in 1999, then entirely in 2004, before being bought by the Theory group in 2006 – has long sought its rhythm, seeing a succession of creatives little known in the sector: the Colovos couple, Isabella Burley or Alix Browne. With Do, the excitement returned. It is a collection full of references to the founder of the brand, who became a contemporary artist, which was presented on September 8. White t-shirts flocked with poetic phrases, mastery of tailoring on straight pants, swaths of color reviving black and white or even a singular androgynous look. Promising beginnings, but which sometimes leave a taste of unfinished business.
THE “discreet luxury” settles down
Appeared in early 2023, notably in the American series Successionsatire of the ultra-rich, the quiet luxury (“discreet luxury”) is characterized by beautifully crafted pieces with apparent simplicity, in a palette of sober colors, without logos or other ostentatious signs. This trend seems to be taking a lasting hold in wardrobes. We spotted it at Proenza Schouler, on sober and impeccable suits or simple pencil skirts. At Gabriela Hearst, she expresses herself in fitted blazers, blouses buttoned all the way to the top or long, carefully draped dresses. The Dutchman Paul Helbers, who is by no means a beginner – he has worked at the Margiela and Vuitton houses –, for his part, showed for the first time with his own label, Fforme. A delightful minimalist classicism, made of long dresses, soft pants or coats with a perfect fit. All in discretion.
Celebrities celebrated
In the United States, perhaps more than elsewhere, the cult of celebrity is anchored in popular culture. And fashion shows are of course the perfect receptacle. At Michael Kors, which presented a bohemian and romantic collection, the front row was full of actresses, like Halle Berry, Blake Lively and Olivia Wilde. At Tory Burch, their colleagues Emma Roberts, Uma Thurman and Naomi Watts enjoyed a collection with sixties influences, while Julianne Moore, Diane Keaton, Jennifer Lopez and Amanda Seyfried attended the Ralph Lauren show. Note that Anna Sorokin, alias Anna Delvey, an All-New York scammer under house arrest after her conviction for aggravated theft, organized the fashion show of the young designer Shao Yang at her home. Enough to make people talk about her again in the fashion sphere, at a lower cost.
The new vision of Lacoste
We left Lacoste in Paris, with Louise Trotter’s latest collection, presented in October 2021. The latter has since joined Carven – her debut will be revealed on September 30 in the French capital. Make way for Pelagia Kolotouros, who has worked with Calvin Klein and Yeezy, Kanye West’s label. It was in New York that the Greek-American presented her vision of the crocodile brand. No catwalk or fashion show: his creations were worn by various celebrities – tennis player Venus Williams, models Irina Shayk and Emily Ratajkowski… – during a party on the roof of the Nine Orchard hotel, celebrating for the occasion the 90th anniversary of Lacoste. Small pleated skirts, fitted blazers, short, figure-hugging dresses or even thick knit sweaters, the look is sporty and respectful of the brand’s codes. “I wanted to revisit the brand’s sporting influences through a fashion treatment, while innovating with a more assertive and sensual femininity”explains the designer.