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Tobacco shops
As time passes, perfumery redoubles its creativity, but the transgressive nature of tobacco perfumes remains. It is to Caron that we owe the first of its kind, Tabac blond, launched in 1919 to pay homage to flappers and their elegant cigarette holders. Intense and feverish, it will appeal to both women and men. Today, the Parisian house offers Tabac blanc, a fresher and luminous fragrance that plays on the white tea aspects of tobacco. The fragrances Tobacco Honey, by Guerlain, and Tobacolor, by Dior, explore the warmer side of tobacco leaves with rich, honeyed compositions. When it comes to sensuality and impertinence, Tobacco Vanilla, by Tom Ford, stands out as a captivating classic. C.Dh.
The flat-seam board
Since their meeting in 2018 at the Made in Bordeaux creators’ show, Elvire Debitus and Christelle Bardet have kept in touch. The first, a former lawyer and now a weaver trained at the Manufacture des Gobelins, is mainly dedicated to making high-smooth tapestries (on a vertical loom). The second, a former fashion designer, created the textile decoration brand Jacques, for which she imagines abstract patterns printed on cushions and hangings, and designs fabric paintings from linen scraps. This latest artistic approach led the two women to collaborate. Christelle Bardet provided the design, Elvire Debitus reproduced it in weaving. “Modern architecture, Sienna background”, this large format measuring 105 × 78 cm, required around a hundred hours of work. To get as close as possible to the patchwork rendering specific to Christelle Bardet’s paintings, Elvire Debitus has reinforced the demarcation lines between each flat area of color and the weaving stitch varies to create relief and vibrations in the material. The tapestry will be shown during exhibitions. Li. Ge.
The Sicilian clan
To mark the recent internalization of its perfumes and cosmetics activity, the label of Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana has just launched a beauty line with an evocative name: Devotion. On the eau de parfum bottle, a fresh and sensual floral signed Olivier Cresp, as on the boxes of all makeup products, is displayed the sacred heart in aged zamak, emblematic of the brand which draws its inspiration from Sicily . Made up of three items, the collection, deliberately lightened, includes a black mascara, a liquid lipstick (nine shades) and an illuminating powder designed to adapt to all complexions and all skin types. Vegan formulas, based on natural active ingredients manufactured by small Sicilian communities, and cases designed to be refilled complete this beauty offering which is set to expand next year. F.Kh.
A nice chic candy bag
Since 2019, one of Vuitton’s famous bags, the Capucines model, has been revisited by contemporary artists as part of an annual collection called Artycapucines. This season, five of them combine their inventiveness with the know-how of the French house. Among them Billie Zangewa, born in Malawi, who transposes one of her paintings on silk onto leather using trompe l’oeil printing, or the American Liza Lou, known for her works in glass beads which This time she uses draped leather to emboss it, giving the bag a sculptural look. The Chinese Ziping Wang chose to reduce the original size of the Capucines in a mini version composed of a patchwork, including a regressive candy motif on brightly colored leather marquetry. F.Kh.
A watchmaking monument
A specialist in lighting, architect Asier Mateo, 35, practiced his profession for several years in Paris and New York, before returning to his native Spain. Last year, this watch enthusiast, sensitive to the Bauhaus aesthetic, wanted to try a hybrid experience. Thus he inaugurated Lebond, a creative laboratory which will produce a watch at least once a year, developed with a renowned architect. Before Eduardo Souto de Moura, scheduled for January, it is Alvaro Siza, 1992 Pritzker Prize, who is the label’s first partner this fall.
The latter set a goal: to design an unexpected case. He took as inspiration the shape of the Leça swimming pool, in the suburbs of Porto, which he had designed in the 1960s, and drew fine needles sometimes with angular deviations, like his signage for toilets (with graphic figures) , repeated almost systematically in its buildings. “While working on the prototypes, we understood that we had to ensure that the corners of the case did not come into contact with the skin so as not to cause injury, specifies Asier Mateo. And, for greater lightness, we opted for titanium and a rubber strap. » Manufactured in Switzerland, the watch is numbered and marketed with an explanatory photographic book. V. Pé.
You have to keep rosés
Who thought that rosés could be wines for aging and even very long aging? Some areas have had a happy experience. The 2004 rosé from Domaine de l’Olivette was designed from the outset to age for a long time. Twenty years have passed for this wine made mainly from Mourvèdre – the grape variety that makes Bandols famous. Wisely, it was harvested in small yields to promote the concentration of the grapes. Result: an orange color supported by an autumnal light like a sunset, a breathtaking complexity for this juicy wine, of incredible length, with notes of candied mandarin and peach compote, iodine, dried fruits and fig. Without going as far as this exceptional aging, you can simply taste a rosé two or three years old to get an idea. Like the convincing Corsican rosé from Domaine Abbatucci. L.G.
Domaine Comte Abbatucci, Faustine, French wine, old vines, rosé, organic, 2020, €31.20. pleasurewine.com