City air may be exciting, but it is and will remain totally unhealthy – for your skin too. Cosmetic scientist and skin expert Dr. Meike Streker explains in an exclusive interview how environmental influences accelerate skin aging.
Wrinkles, skin irritations and redness: whether you like it or not, everyone gets them with age. But not everyone: r externally ages at the same rate. That’s partly because of the genes. But how quickly you visibly age depends much more on how you live, where you live and, above all, how you deal with nature.
Interview: cosmetic scientist and skin expert Dr. Meike Streker
GALA: Everyone gets fine wrinkles with age. However, if environmental influences are added, the wrinkles become deeper. Why is that and what environmental influences are you referring to?
Dr. Meike Streker: Environmental influences such as sunlight or fine dust lead to an increased formation of dangerous free radicals and thus to so-called oxidative stress. These free radicals activate enzymes in the dermis (connective tissue) and, for example, accelerate the breakdown of collagen and damage various molecules, including our DNA. Cigarette consumption or a permanent lack of sleep intensify the effect of free radicals in the skin and lead to a reduced glow.
Which environmental factors are involved and how you can protect yourself
Which environmental factor is the most dangerous for the skin?
For a long time, premature skin aging or environmentally induced skin aging was equated with so-called photoaging. It was assumed that UV rays play the main role in what is known as extrinsic skin aging. In principle, this can also be confirmed based on the current state of knowledge, but we now know that environmentally-related skin aging results from the interplay of many factors.
It has been known for around 10 years that not only can UV rays from sunlight damage the skin, but that infrared A rays also cause oxidative stress.
They penetrate into the mitochondria, the respiratory organs of our skin cells, and there lead to an increased release of free radicals. We also know today that fine dust leads to the premature formation of age spots and deeper wrinkles. Personal lifestyle, i.e. diet as well as stress and lack of sleep, can prematurely lead to signs of aging. Therefore, today one no longer speaks of one factor, but of the so-called skin aging exposome, which unites all environmental factors.
Which ingredients can protect you from these influences in everyday life?
In order to prevent or counteract oxidative stress in the skin, a balanced diet with antioxidants such as vitamin C is essential. It is important that only fruits and vegetables that are harvested when they are ripe are served, as they offer far more protective capacity against free radicals than fruits or vegetables, which first have to travel a long way to our table. Antioxidants have also proven themselves as cosmetic active ingredients in the fight against oxidative stress in the skin. Here too, vitamin C is considered a classic, the effect of which on the skin has been proven in a large number of studies. In high doses, vitamin C has been shown to stimulate the connective tissue metabolism and thus stimulate the formation of new collagen. But hyaluronic acid, applied on the surface, also has an antioxidant effect.
Heat and sun: the enemies of an eternally young skin
The winter sun is – as you know – weaker than the Mallorca sun in summer. Why is it still so important to always wear sun protection even in the colder months?
Adequate sun protection is also essential in winter. Winter holidays in particular are a particular challenge for the skin. In addition to wind, cold and dry heating air, there is also UV exposure, which can be very strong, especially at high altitudes. It is then increased in the ski areas by the reflection of the snow. A high level of light protection (SPF 50) is a daily must here.
But sun protection should not be dispensed with in everyday life either.
Our skin was already weaned from the sun in autumn, so that the natural, endogenous light protection through tanning of the skin or through a thicker horny layer (light callus) is no longer given. In addition, in winter our skin is already stressed by the freezing cold and dry heating air. Therefore, rich sun creams are the perfect care product in winter. Because: even sunburn in winter has long-term consequences, which we see in premature skin aging and, in the worst case, as skin cancer later.
What effects does heating air have on skin aging in winter?
Heating air is characterized by insufficient humidity. This “dry air” removes moisture from our skin, which quickly becomes noticeable as a feeling of tension. Since the skin is generally drier in winter due to environmental influences, the additional loss of moisture then leads to abnormal adhesion of the horny cells, which results in a This creates the typical appearance of dry skin that is less smooth and is characterized by a pale complexion and visible flaking. In addition, the skin itches and is usually more sensitive to pollutants and allergens because the skin’s own barrier is disrupted. Now Products that strengthen the skin barrier are in demand, including ceramides and valuable lipids from shea butter, jojoba oil and sunflower extract.
Actively combat skin aging
Are there food supplements or household products that can be used to counteract environmental influences that are harmful to the skin and thus possibly slow down skin aging?
Special, bioavailable collagen peptides in drinking ampoules can stimulate the synthesis of collagen, hyaluronic acid, elastin and fibrillin. The skin density was also significantly improved after regular use. Product-specific studies with ELASTEN have shown this, for example. Furthermore, a stimulation of the hyaluronic acid synthesis on dermal fibroblasts could be proven in studies. This can counteract a loss of moisture and elasticity as well as wrinkles from within all over the body.
A lot of time was spent in one’s own four walls, especially during the pandemic. What role do healthy exercise and fresh air play in aging skin?
Exercise or sport, especially in the fresh air, has consistently positive effects on our skin. The blood circulation improves, as the higher pumping power of the heart also increases the blood supply to the tiny blood vessels in the skin. The result is rosier skin. There is also a better supply of oxygen to the blood cells. Sport also reduces stress, which we certainly all have due to the pandemic. Exercise has also been shown to reduce stress hormones in the body, which can help improve relaxation and reduce oxidative stress in the skin.
Sources used: own interview
This article was first published by BRIGITTE.de.