After New York, London and Milan, it is Paris’ turn to show its spring-summer 2024 women’s collections, from September 25 to October 3, 2023. Among the hundred labels present, some are presenting their creations for the first time in this very official setting. Here is what we will follow closely.
Marie Adam-Leenaerdt, the art of deconstruction
Graduated from the La Cambre school (Belgium) in 2020, Marie Adam-Leenaerdt, 27, sharpened her eye at Givenchy and Balenciaga before launching the brand that bears her name in 2022. The designer draws her inspiration from objects Daily. For her spring-summer 2024 collection, she repurposes a beach cabin or a towel which becomes clothing or accessory… Particular attention is paid to construction games. Deconstruct to rebuild better, in short. We then find skirts cut at an angle, double lapels on suit jackets or even bags assembled together to form one. An experimental approach but no less desirable.
Duran Lantink, the second life of clothes
Newly installed in Paris, after starting out in Amsterdam, the Dutchman Duran Lantink has made his collections a reflection of his convictions: above all, not to overproduce, in an industry already largely supplied with fabrics and textiles. His idea ? Make clothes from leftover stock or pieces found in thrift stores. He also doesn’t hesitate to cut into a Chanel suit or a Prada jacket to give them a second life. This results in unique and surprising collections – puffy trench coats, mini-T-shirts, draped dresses, etc. – but which do not necessarily look patched up.
Kiko Kostadinov, pop colors and sexy cuts
If we have known the Bulgarian designer Kiko Kostadinov for several seasons on the men’s catwalks for his collections which notably subvert work clothing with skill, the brand is officially joining the women’s calendar this season, with Australian sisters Deanna and Laura Fanning at the helm of style. Mix of materials, well-designed cutouts, layering and pop colors: a sexy and highly Instagrammable wardrobe, which counts model Bella Hadid and singer Dua Lipa among its fans.
Peter Do, minimalist and transformist
After presenting his first collection for Helmut Lang in New York, it is in Paris that Peter Do unveils the collection for the brand that bears his name. This American-Vietnamese who plays with discretion – age and face concealed – launched his label in 2018, after collaborating with Phoebe Philo, Celine period, and Derek Lam, in New York. Articulated around the basics of the wardrobe, its unisex and no-frills wardrobe apparently plays on simplicity, but reveals a perfect mastery of construction, even if it means shaking up the codes: a suit jacket is cut into the back, long dresses can also be worn inside out, straight pants are open on the sides… Minimal and not banal.
Christopher Esber, on edge
It’s not every day that an Australian designer lands a place on the Parisian catwalks. Although the brand has existed since 2010, it has only just arrived in the official French fashion week calendar. The key word of his style? The sensuality. At Christopher Esber, 35, it nestles in the fine fastenings of his short dresses, the transparency of his long pleated petticoats or even in sculptural dresses that perfectly fit the silhouette. A wardrobe which nevertheless manages to never fall into excess skin and which reveals just what is necessary.