Johann Lafer: "Many restaurateurs are up to their necks"

Johann Lafer
"Many restaurateurs are up to their necks"

Together with Eckart Witzigmann (79), Johann Lafer (63) has just published the book "A Friendship – 100 Recipes" (Gräfe and Unzer). The well-known TV chef explains in an interview with the news agency spot on news what he has learned from Witzigmann and how gastronomy is changing due to the corona pandemic.

The compulsory Corona break has been extended: How do you currently assess the situation in gastronomy?

Johann Lafer: I suffer with and have great empathy for all of my colleagues who are currently running a restaurant. I myself am humble and grateful that in these times I no longer have to be responsible for running my own restaurant. But the colleagues deserve respect and recognition because they have invested enormously in hygiene concepts, because they all try to keep and protect their employees, as well as their guests, because they have creative concepts such as takeaways or even charitable activities such as cooking for the nursing staff have implemented. I am in contact with many of them and one of the biggest problems for all of them is the lack of predictability. This also applies to me, by the way, cooking courses, banquets, culinary events – everything is canceled and cannot yet be planned for the New Year.

Will the government's relief efforts be enough to save the locales or will there be a wave of bankruptcies?

Lafer: Many people are up to their necks and not all of them have a discerning landlord who cuts or even suspends the rent. Now it is even said that the payouts for November will not come until January at the earliest. Whether the aid measures are sufficient then depends in detail on many factors in the companies, are there reserves, are you still liquid, have you built up a healthy substance in the past or alternative offers that create a little compensation. And in the end it also depends on how long the Chose will last … Unfortunately, I am saddened because many companies simply cannot hold out – and that without any fault of their own.

How will the catering industry change in the long run due to Corona?

Lafer: I believe that those who manage to survive the crisis with their restaurant will always have a plan B in their pocket for the future. From a social point of view, I hope for more respect and appreciation for the industry, because everyone must have realized how the social aspect alone – meeting friends, enjoying together, getting to know people, etc. – is practically served by the restaurateurs. Gastronomy is system and culture relevant – I hope so for the future!

You have just published your new book "A Friendship – 100 Recipes" with Eckart Witzigmann. What is the most important thing that you have learned from Mr. Witzigmann?

Lafer: I think the most important lessons I have taken with me to this day are discipline, perseverance, creativity and the courage to keep trying new things. And always deliver top quality. But also the knowledge that you can only run any business with a good team. Despite all the rigor of Witzigmann as mentor and boss – the team spirit came first, from the very good staff meal to the joint football game. Eckart always says with a wink that he not only hired me as the best pastry chef in Germany, but also as a goalkeeper for the then Aubergine soccer team (laughs). Eckart's theorem that nothing comes from nothing applies to me to this day. It was an unbelievable honor to work for him back then, after all, Witzigmann lifted the German kitchen out of its slumber, the title of the chef of the century says it all.

Do you associate a very special moment with friendship that you think back on often?

Lafer: For me, friendship means above all – in good times and bad. And Eckart always stood by me. There is not just one moment, but so many when we have supported each other. Despite all the rigor as a mentor and in his job, Eckart is an incredibly gentle and charming man. Hospitality anyway. Nowadays I enjoy most of the private meetings with him in Munich, when he also cooks for me, it is always a taste experience to this day.

In your new book you present dishes divided into the four seasons. What's your favorite recipe for winter?

Lafer: Oh, there are so many where my mouth is watering while preparing. Incidentally, the compilation of the recipes according to the season was extremely important to us to encourage people to buy seasonal products. So one of my favorite vegetarian dishes in the book is the beetroot carpaccio. But winter is also wildlife season, so I recommend my recipe for roasted venison fillet with cranberry-game jus and black salsify purée.

Are you already planning for Christmas under Corona conditions? What do you have on the table?

Lafer: As always, Christmas is family time with us and luckily both of my grown-up children are at home. Usually the pastor with whom we are friends also comes to dinner, let's see how we can do that this year. And on Christmas Eve we have a classic meal with goose and red cabbage dumplings.

What do you want and what are you planning for 2021?

Lafer: Of course, I would like the pandemic to end in the foreseeable future, or at least that we can go through life more relaxed with vaccinations. Along with this, I hope that gastronomy and tourism can start up again, and that also applies to my business areas. Although I am really not a digital native, I will build up a second mainstay with online cooking courses. And I want to be able to travel again for my magazine. But first of all, after the New Year, I will go into a cure for a few weeks, like every year, will keep dieting and do sport, that will bring me back into focus and is my personal reset for body, mind and senses.

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