Retinol has become an essential part of many people’s skincare routines. “Also known as vitamin A, retinol is actually one of its three forms. In cosmetology and dermatology, we speak of first generation retinoids“, begins Dr Anny Cohen-Letessier, dermatologist in Paris. It is found naturally in foods of animal origin: “offal is one of the main sources“, as the dermatologist reminds us. Nevertheless, “in products of plant origin there is a precursor of vitamin A, also called provitamin A, like beta-carotene“. It is found in particular in sweet potatoes and carrots.
What is the effect of retinol on the skin?
Very renowned for its anti-wrinkle action, this is not its only indication. “By activating the repair and regeneration capabilities of skin cells, retinol has an action to both anti-aging and anti-imperfections on the skin“, continues the doctor who qualifies it”essential cosmetic active ingredient“.
What are the benefits of retinol?
The dermatologist specifies that the use of retinol is particularly recommended “in case of wrinkles, stretch marks, or acne scars“. This product, “by a phenomenon of excitation of skin cells, has the capacity to stimulate collagen and of promote cell renewal . It thus improves the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, brown spots and acne“.
But the doctor also reminds that for visible results, it must be integrated into a good, balanced skincare routine.containing reference active ingredients for each time of the day: protective in the morning to help the skin fight against the oxidative stress it undergoes throughout the day, repairing and regenerating in the evening.”
Cream, serum: how to choose your retinol treatment? Which is the most effective?
“There is no preferred galenic, you must above all look at the type of retinol contained in the cosmetic treatment and the skin type.“, specifies the dermatologist.
“Retinol esters are retinoids the sweetest because they must go through three transformations before becoming assets. For sensitive and reactive skin, these are definitely the best options to consider“, explains Dr. Cohen-Letessier.
Retinaldehyde is the retinoid the most powerful available without a prescription. He is “the preferred form to act against acne due to its antibacterial properties“.
The doctor adds that it now exists “retinol serums combined with retinoic acid boosters. They allow you to see real results, while ensuring greater tolerance for all skin types.“.
L’retinoic acid is the effective form of retinol, its prescription is made on prescription.
Morning or evening, dry or damp skin: how to apply your retinol treatment?
Ideally, retinol is applied in the evening, because it can have a photosensitizing effect. “Any product containing vitamin A or one of its derivatives sensitizes the skin to UV rays“, specifies Dr Anny Cohen-Letessier. But it remains essential”to apply UV50+ protection on a daily basis“, even if you integrate retinol into your evening routine. The dermatologist adds that it applies always on clean, dry skin.
For the uninitiated, we recommend starting “with low concentrations and non-aggressive forms of retinol, then gradually increase the doses“, indicates the doctor before specifying not to exceed “THE 3 or 4 applications per weekat the risk of ‘accustoming the skin’ and no longer seeing results over time“.
For a first use, “it is better to favor a low dosage“Whether or not to increase the dose will depend on skin tolerance.”Retinol is visibly effective against the signs of aging from 0.01%“, recalls Dr Anny Cohen-Letessier. As a reminder, “the European Cosmetic Regulation now authorizes the use of retinol in leave-on products at a maximum concentration of 0.3%“, as Dr Cohen-Letessier explains.
How long does retinol take to work?
As is often the case in cosmetics, the keys to observing the effects on the skin are regularity and perseverance. “The effects are only really visible after a minimum of 8 weeks of use. Most studies only show a noticeable reduction in natural aging wrinkles and spots after 3 to 6 months of retinol skincare application.“, adds Dr Anny Cohen-Letessier.
Vitamin C, sun, pregnancy, sensitive skin: what are the contraindications to retinol?
“Retinol has a keratolytic effect which can be powerful according to its concentration“, reminds the dermatologist. “For sensitive skin, or if using retinol for the first time, it is better to do a test beforehand to ensure that there is no skin reaction.“We should also avoid its use if the skin is already irritated.”for example after prolonged exposure to the sun“.
Also, “it should avoid combining retinol with another active ingredient without consultation prior dermatological, an unsuitable mixture of active ingredients can cause irritation or dryness of the skin. There is also a risk of neutralizing the benefits of certain active ingredients, making them ineffective.“, warns the doctor. In particular, she specifies that it is preferable “avoid combining retinol and pure vitamin C without being certain of their form. Combined, these two molecules can cause irritation“. If both are part of your care kit, “the ideal is to reserve vitamin C for the morning skincare routine and retinol for the evening routine“.
For pregnant or breastfeeding women, retinol should be avoided completely according to the precautionary principle.
“Retinol purge”: what are the side effects of this ingredient?
It is possible to notice signs of irritation of the skin after using a retinol-based treatment. According to Dr. Anny Cohen-Letessier, there is no need to worry: “it is the most common side effect of this ingredient. Simply stop applying the product and consult your dermatologist.“.
Retinol or hyaluronic acid: what is the difference in action to reduce wrinkles?
“Hyaluronic acid and retinol are two key cosmetic elements with proven effectiveness. The distinction between these two active ingredients lies in their very distinct mechanisms of action on the skin.“, explains the dermatologist. She then points out that:
- Hyaluronic acid belongs “to the Glycoaminoglycan group“It is naturally generated by the body,”it is found in skin and skeletal tissues“Only, with age, its natural production decreases,”the skin is less firm and wrinkles appear especially after menopause“. The dermatologist adds that “its high molecular weight only allows action on the surface of the epidermis, it must be broken down into low molecular weight to penetrate the epidermal layers“It protects the skin “from dehydration and the elements of the surrounding environment”, adds the dermatologist. “Hyaluronic acid has especially a plumping, hydrating and softening effect“.
- As for retinol, “it transforms into retinoid acid, a compound which will act on skin cells by activating their repair and regeneration capacities and boosts the production of collagen and elastinessential components of the extracellular matrix“.
*Thanks to Dr Anny Cohen-Letessier, dermatologist in Paris