The haute couture fashion shows, which took place in Paris from January 22 to 25, are an opportunity for houses, permanent members or guests of the official calendar, to present their handmade and tailor-made know-how. A quick overview of some strong silhouettes spotted on the catwalks.
Viktor & Rolf, cuts and cuts
Since he joined in 2013 the official haute couture calendar, the Dutch duo Viktor & Rolf brings a dose of humor and quirkiness to this sometimes somewhat stiff universe. This season, focus on the very essence of couture: cuts and cuts. Evening dresses, suits and coats follow one another in different versions, from the intact outfit to its increasingly cut-out version, revealing the lining, as on this strapless dress cut in two. A nice style effect.
Sara Chraïbi, resilient kaftans
Moroccan Sara Chraïbi tells each of her collections a little piece of her country – this season, the earthquake in the High Atlas of September 2023. “I wanted to pay homage to the Moroccan land, so resilient”, she explains. This translates into dresses and kaftans available in an ocher, sienna or umber palette, and in particular this coat with kimono sleeves in printed satin, reproducing a view of the Tinmel mosque, a 12th century building.e century which did not resist the earthquake.
Yuima Nakazato, opera sheath dress
The Japanese designer creates the opera’s costumes Idomeneus, which will premiere at the Grand Théâtre de Genève on February 21. Here he presents his creations made from shredded textiles that he recovered from uniforms and work clothes. The magic of couture, here they are transformed into evening outfits, decorated with ceramic, glass and platinum, like this sheath dress.
Maison Margiela, polymorphous wardrobe
The genius of John Galliano lies as much in his spectacular creations as in his careful staging. In an abandoned brewery recreated under the Alexandre-III bridge, it offers a polymorphous locker room whose work with materials is the secret. Like this coat in silk organza and horsehair, deliberately pleated and extremely striated, resembling cardboard.
Jean Paul Gaultier by Simone Rocha, cones and icons
Since 2021, Jean Paul Gaultier has entrusted the reins of his haute couture collections to other designers. After Julien Dossena for Paco Rabanne or Chitose Abe from Sacai, it is Simone Rocha who tackled it this season. The Irishwoman has appropriated the designer’s codes, notably the iconic cone-shaped chests, which we find on this fully draped pine green coat.