The history of ephemeral restaurants or “pop-up” restaurants began about fifteen years ago in the United Kingdom, Australia and the United States. It is also across the Atlantic that the French Ludo Lefebvre created in 2007 LudoBites: one of the first popular models of its kind, leading him to invest the stoves of his colleagues in Los Angeles for a limited time.
Offer a unique menu in a place adapted (or not) to the kitchen? The concept is revolutionary. It was not until 2012 that he made a timid debut in France, carried by the English chef Harry Cummins and his Quebec partner Laura Vidal. “It was the American bosses of Verjus, in Paris, who trusted us first, remembers this one. It was a bit complicated at the start to convince French restaurants to welcome us. ” The duo created Paris Popup and took over the trendy tables of the capital.
From Adrien Cachot to Yannick Alléno
Since then, temporary canteens have attracted massively in France. Initially reserved for young chefs rather broke, the “pop-up” has become for some a long-lasting way of working that allows them to keep their independence and not to be murdered by the rents. “I don’t see myself as a restaurant owner, being a nomad suits me very well”, admitted Céline Pham, in residence for two months until December 23 at Petrossian, in Paris. Between the chef acclaimed by a new generation of gourmets and the high-end society, the concept also makes it possible to mix audiences.
The ephemeral restaurant has almost become a must for the most popular candidates of reality TV (Adrien Cachot at the Perchoir de Ménilmontant, Mohamed Cheikh at the Jardin des Plantes …) and seduces even the big hats (Jean-François Trap, Yannick Alléno…).
It causes the birth of architectural UFOs: an eco-nomadic mobile restaurant, Ventrus, designed by restaurateur Guillaume Chupeau currently installed in La Villette park is preparing to install its rounded wooden frame within a few months in several French cities, including Marseille and Trouville. This strange cabin is the playground of chef Juliette Brunet, who will give way to other young virtuosos as the adventure progresses. As for the pioneers of the movement, they remain faithful to the concept. Le Livingston, founded in Marseille by Laura Vidal and her associates, now in turn welcomes many chefs for a limited time.