“Animal instinct”. This is how Riccardo Tisci baptized his spring-summer 2022 collection for Burberry, presented in video on Monday, September 27, the same day as the start of Parisian fashion week. An entire program. At the head of the style of the illustrious English house since 2018, Riccardo Tisci has never stopped playing with Burberry codes – the trench coat, the checks… – while injecting his touch – black, a sexy allure, strong prints. This season, he illustrates this mix of genres by pushing the cursor a little further in his staging.
In a huge room with cathedral windows – is it a shed, a church? -, the models wander between what appear to be mountains of sequins, then pass through a room covered with plated trench-coat sleeves, giving the illusion of a padded noise chamber. Then, along a dark corridor, they are blown by the powerful wind of a fan, before surveying another corridor whose walls are encrusted with sound speakers. The absence of music, which suggests the footsteps of the models, gives the whole an almost soothing virtue.
From baseball caps to cat ears
Throughout this journey, images of naked rave-party dancers sometimes surprise the girls, without this stopping their pace and their determined air. “ This video represents the freedom of the imagination, how we dream of coming back to life. I wanted to cross different immersive spaces, each unique and unexpected in sounds, textures and experience. This corresponds to the idea of an infinite reality that we touch every day with our finger ”, details Riccardo Tisci in his note of intent.
A somewhat convoluted explanation, which echoes the clothes in the collection playing with deconstruction. The iconic trench coat is cut at the back to reveal abstract printed swimsuits, a series of short dresses are adorned with colorful patterns, long tapered pants accompany large capes or men’s jackets with plunging necklines …
In terms of accessories, the designer introduced a new bag called “Rhombi” on his catwalk, in the shape of an ellipse that can be worn at arm’s length or on the shoulder. There are also cotton baseball caps with cat ears and heeled sandals, sometimes adorned with a toe ring. A collection full of strong details that the designer has dedicated to his mother, Elmerinda, who recently passed away.
