They are young. The Eidel brothers, Basil and Paul, are 26 and 23 years old respectively. They share a roommate ‘, the bands of friends, the love of music, a meal at Alain Passard’s then, in the wake, a collaboration in the kitchens of a wine cellar in Pré-Saint-Gervais (Seine-Saint -Denis): Jaja. Two confinements later, they no longer want to wait. They set up Boucan, a bistro where they will tell their mixed story: a maternal grandmother from Reunion Island – who cooks from 7 in the morning corks and samosas to promote the taste of her island through the association she has set up – and a gourmet father who loved to share his taste for fine dining with his boys.
The Taste of M
When they put themselves behind the stove, Paul and Basile naturally give birth to a disheveled bistronomy. It takes place in a dull street of 10e arrondissement of Paris, wedged between the romantico-bobo fantasy of the Canal Saint-Martin and the more festive one of the Belleville district. Despite everything, while the rain hammers the Parisian asphalt, the green facade of this restaurant requires stopping. Behind the window, bistro tables, rosewood chairs, an open kitchen, few people, but the guys behind the counter have a good face. A musical flow imbued with soul and funk orders to take place.
Old rum puree
A ti-punch later, the first plates arrive with infectious enthusiasm. The just seared duck hearts are served with a chimichurri sauce where coriander and parsley dominate. Further on, the hay-smoked mackerel is put on the flame. The fat of his burnt skin provides just the right amount of binder to endure the ode to bitter that the Eidel brothers have decided to sing. The puntarelle, this Italian salad quite similar to the dandelion on which the fish fillet is lying, is seasoned with an anchovy vinaigrette and sprinkled with bottarga.
The range is complete between aerial, deep and vaporous bitterness. This is delicious. Paul and Basil will not take half measures. The cod that follows once again points to the integrated character of the cook brothers. Cooked meunière, it has the smoothness of salted butter caramel. The old rum mash that escorts her has the intensity of a nap under 40 ° C. But everything is thought out down to the smallest detail and a coarse brunoise of pears prepared in pickles gives the taste buds a few slaps in order to avoid any premature numbness of the senses.
A sip of Portuguese plain wine with a vermilion robe distills citrus notes, raising the bar for acids that were starting to run out. The lemon cream which concludes the meal also has this objective although its solar power is tempered by the salted butter crunch and the Italian meringue. This is the only dinner proposition that lacks balance (a little more meringue would have calmed the lemon better). And there is no doubt of the evolutionary capacity of the Eidel brothers, who can be expected to rise well.
The address Boucan, 8, rue Vicq-d’Azir, Paris 10e. Phone. : 09-84-23-64-80. Open Monday to Saturday from 6.30 p.m. to 1 a.m.
The essential Hay smoked mackerel, puntarelle and bottarga.
The detail that is not The musical selection that will rock the taste buds.
The bill Around 45 euros.
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