When Domitille Jollois was appointed, in 2022, to give a facelift to 30, rue des Saints-Pères, in Paris, she preferred to go down to the basement, in search of inspiration. The brand new president of the Debauve et Gallais chocolate factory has done well. “Everything was there, in the cellar,” she says in wonder. She describes accumulated treasures, boxes from all eras, of all formats, drawings, slogans, forgotten recipes, convoluted calligraphies… Here they are again on the ground floor, slightly adapted. Or how to restore its luster to an institution without going through a complete renovation.
The very first chocolate factory of Sulpice Debauve (1757-1836), Marie-Antoinette’s pharmacist who became the inventor of chewable chocolate, has just been given an old-fashioned makeover. The period frames were restored with wood paste, the faded facade was repainted identically, “and it was not so easy to reproduce its original green”, slides Domitille Jollois.
Above the porch, the old golden letters indicate more clearly “Utile dulci” below “Debauve et Gallais manufacturers of fine and hygienic chocolates”. Nothing flashy, nothing fancy, “we wanted to keep the old-fashioned feel”. So as not to disturb the loyal clientele, those from All-Paris and even All-Hollywood, but also those who have passed from grandparents to grandchildren since 1819. “Some come every day,” assure the sellers.
Pop colored paper
So Domitille Jollois reassures, no classic has been revisited here. The rocks are always chubby and grainy, “the perfect hand-rolled ones, the walnut pralines decorated with their kernels and a fleur-de-lys adorns the chocolate ganaches”. But regulars at the house may notice that something else has changed. Historical recipes brought back from the cellar have found their place on the counters. The almond milk pistoles (Marie Antoinette’s favorite) which had disappeared have resurfaced.
Like Mademoiselle praline, “a two-layer hazelnut praline-lemon almond paste coated with chocolate, in homage to Coco Chanel”, describes the president. It is also the rebirth of “eclair chocolate, a cup in a minute” in individual pebbles to be diluted. Alongside these resurrected products, new ones: a yuzu bite, a pepper praline and smaller sizes “to adapt to the tastes of the time”, justifies Domitille Jollois, who dared some coquetry.
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