It takes a lot of love for Mexican cuisine and a touch of madness to come and hunt on the land of the big “French taco” brands. Yet this is the challenge that these specialized eateries have taken up by returning to the roots of the product, to the delight of lovers of flavors (and spicy slaps).
Chilango Coffee
Created in 2014, this small, long shop combines the bar and the kitchen in a row. Here everything is homemade, except for the tortillas (provided by the specialized company La Reina de las tortillas). And the toppings turn out to be very tasty: pork stewed in achiote; invigorating mashed red beans with sheep’s cheese; chicken in tomato sauce and chipotle pepper. The taco is charged 4 euros. Watch out for the sauces served on the side, which can upset the taste buds a bit, and don’t hesitate to try the fabulous (and spicy) cocktails based on tequila and mescal.
82, rue de la Folie-Méricourt, Paris (11e). Cafechilangoparis.com
El Cartel del taco
With their logo representing a masked wrestler, Aby and Arnaud Zorzi seem determined to knock out. the pale imitations of tacos. Here, everything is fresh, authentic and consistent. We melt for the taco suadero (with beef chuck confit for twelve hours), the pastor (made with pork loin), the nopales (marinated cactus)… all garnished with coriander, red onions and lemon (less than 4 euros per unit depending on the formula). Homemade sauces are also the queens of the meal, and can set the palate on fire. Our favorite, the less strong chipotle salsa, is concocted with the chipotle pepper and smoked tomatoes cooked on the barbecue.
227, rue La Fayette, Paris (10e). Elcarteldeltaco.fr
Paris-Mexico
In a few weeks, chef Carlos Moreno will open Comer in the 10e arrondissement of Paris, a shop that will offer the owner’s contemporary tacos. But it is already possible to order taco kits (about thirty euros for three people) for delivery via its website. “The kits include the nixtamalized corn tortillas and the filling on the side: this allows you to eat the tacos as soon as they are assembled, as is done in Mexico”, says Carlos Moreno. Among the recipes: marinated pork belly confit with sweet peppers, shredded duck with spices or marinated mushrooms and chickpeas.
Los tacos chingones
Mathieu Poisson collected traditional Mexican recipes, on site, from experienced cooks, then created this colorful taqueria, which mixes Mexican earthenware, cactus, colorful posters and mariachi hats. The corn tortillas are homemade, prepared every day, and the products (excluding cactus, served in a marinade with tomatoes and red onions) are all local: like this shredded beef, blonde d’Aquitaine (just over 3 euros a unit according to the formula).
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